Delhi Belly

Our first night in Delhi was an unfortunate introduction. I had not slept for two nights in a row, and our hotel did not send our driver, forcing us to use a prepaid taxi. A word of advice: don't give anyone your taxi voucher until you've arrived at your intended destination. Our driver was in fact a tout, taking us instead to a "tourist info" center where we were told that there was a "mistake" in our hotel reservation and that without our reservation number we were screwed. But we had already called at the airport to confirm our booking, convincing me that although I watched the guy dial the hotel's number we were in fact talking to someone in a back room. I let the man think we were desperate and willing to do anything, accepting his sales pitch on a tour of the Golden Triangle (Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur) while I considered our actual options. Once he started using underhanded sales (manipulation) techniques, trying to make us afraid and such, I got pissed and walked out.

But at this point, after an exhausting plane ride and the run-around through Pahar Ganj, my fear/paranoia level was indeed rising. I was done with taxis and autorickshaws, so we walked up the next street and found a decent cheap hotel. I wouldn't let my travel partner, our baggage, or our passports out of my sight at this point, so they were completely bewildered by my behavior. In a back alley I insisted walking on foot with one of the hotel workers so that he could photocopy our passports. On the way I explained what had happened and profusely apologized if I had offended in any way. He apologized even more that that was my first impression of India, and did not come across as a smooth operator.


That night I could not sleep, still riding on waves of paranoia, the constant honking from the streets below, and the oppressive humidity. Our room was without AC and was as hot as a sauna until we opened the windows. I was finally able to fall asleep the next afternoon. A few hours was all I was afforded, woken as I was by the national holiday festival celebrating Gandhi's birthday. I joined the hotel owner outside to watch and chat, meeting a friend of his. After the last truck of celebrants passed and we ate all the sweets we were handed, I joined them in the hotel lobby for chai. I had already picked up a bit more Hindi since arriving, and my use of it amuses people here to no end. We spoke of world politics and the U.S. election. Needless to say it is well known here that the "king-makers" will ultimately decide the vote. I was advised against Varanasi for a few weeks, given the flooding there.

At this point I realized how hungry I was, my last meal being on Air India. We decided to eat at a street vendor, anyway, regardless of all advice to the contrary. Today we've been exploring the markets in Old Rajender Nagar, where we are staying at the Hotel Crystal Palace across from a Shiva temple next to the Ganga Ram Hospital. As soon as I find a computer with a USB port, I'll get some pictures up.